MADE-TO-MEASURE. Making modern three-piece suit. Part 2.

It took about 4 weeks since I’ve ordered suit in INDEVER Studio in Moscow. Today the suit has arrived. I’d like to talk about the details we’ve fixed and what can you expect from first made-to-measure fitting. 

The first part of article was published about two weeks ago and the process has been started about a month ago. You can read about it here and check out the studio by this link. 

I was invited to the studio for the fitting. Almost everything was fine. The main thing we should check is sleeves which should be symmetric even if basically they have a different length. I wrote about it here. And the second thing is a length of trousers. It came unfinished and we need to decide how long we want it and rolled or not.


ALTERATIONS

If you order the pants with cuffs like me, the final lenght will be decided now. Cuff’s width will be selected and it will take basically from an hour to few days to sew it together with other parts.Master will shorten the length of the pants and stitch the cuffs. Despite the fact that the service provides a perfect fit on the figure, it’s still possible to correct even the finished suit within one size, if you have lost or, contrary, gained weight. 

DETAIL – Don’t be afraid to talk about discomfort etc. If you gained a bit of kilos recently and don’t think you’ll loose it soon — say about it to a tailor. If you got thinner — same story. 

JACKET

In case of the jacket, we decided just to fix the upper back. The length of blazer and sleeves were perfect. Even if it’s not very long and maybe a bit shorter than many of clients would have chosen, but I wanted that more italian way. I think it is better to let the shirt pops out a little more than if it would not be visible. Moreover, I guess, on the one hand you will wear a watch and on the other — pair of bracelets.Screen Shot 2014-11-03 at 9.00.18

TROUSERS

The “break” is the small wrinkle caused when the top of your shoe stops your trouser cuff from falling to its full length.

Screen Shot 2014-11-03 at 9.01.55This should be a small, subtle feature. One horizontal dimple or crease is usually ideal. The cuff should indeed rest on the top of your shoe — there needs to be contact — but it shouldn’t do much more than that. The trouser can fall a touch longer in the back than in front, so long as it’s still above the heel of the shoe (the actual heel, not just the back of the shoe).

TO KNOW This is one of the easiest adjustments to make, so you can rely on making some changes here if you need to. In fact, dress pants are often sold unhemmed, with the assumption that the purchaser will take the trousers to a tailor (or make use of the store’s tailor if there is one) to have the cuffs fitted.

VEST

It was almost perfect. We just pinned a waist a bit to make sure it covers the body properly and there are not folds on it.

Screen Shot 2014-11-03 at 9.00.48


Since now I have to wait just a few days till the suit will be ready from the tailor in Moscow. The assistant of the studio will call me to notify about the day I can come to pick up my suit or still fix something in it. The final result will be show in my last third post about MADE-TO-MEASURE SUIT made in Moscow.


Photos: Irina Sladkova (instagram: irasweet), Pavel Boyman. Location: Indever studio, Moscow

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